Alexandra Zvi

Alexandra Zvi
Designed by God to design

Sunday 22 July 2012

Here's a technique if your'e interested?

While editing and changing the website, 
I remembered that I haven’t blogged lately.
So I thought I'd teach you a technique picked up as a member of the Embroiders guild in Maidstone, Kent.  Never quite knew what the ladies at the guild called it, but I call it fabric 'mache'
I've adapted over the years - It goes something like this:

    Select fabric for the ‘mache', making sure that
    it compliments the top fabric.
    Cut the fabric into small pieces As the fabrics will be revealed  through the organza the fabric needs to be well considered
    The size depends on  the maker
    and what is the desired effect










    Mix the fabric pieces together
    as if you are rubbing in pastry!
    Ensure all the cut layers are separated
    Preparing the Fabric:

    Ensure the base fabric compliments the fabric pieces incase the base fabric is revealed.
    Use a natural fibre that is heavy enough to stabilise the free hand stitching
    A natural fibre is used if the ‘mache’ 
    is to be heat manipulated. 
    A synthetic fabric will melt, where as a natural fibre burns and the effect is not as aesthetically pleasing!

    Spread the fabric pieces out as evenly as possible so that the finished result is not too lumpy (the machine needle is more likely to break if the ‘mache’ is too lumpy)
    Tack through all the layers securing the fabric pieces between a sheer top fabric and base fabrics. Start from the middle of the fabric and sew outwards around the sides.
    It is good to uses a colour thread that will stand out so that it can be un-picked once the free motion embroidery is in place
    free-motion machine stitching:
    Machine foot – refer to the instruction manual for the particular machine. Lower the feed-dog
    Length – 3   Width  - 0
    Tension: 2.5 to allow the thread to freely 
    pass through without snapping
    Needle: long eyed machine needle designed specially for machine embroidery cottons(METAFIL works well)


    Soldering Iron
    Health and safety – beware of the heat!
    Use iron wool to keep the soldering iron clean.
    Experiment first.

    Heat Gun
    Health and safety – beware of the heat!
    An all over burning effect. Experiment first.
    Here is an example of using the macho technique in a costume.




    Try it - Have fun:)













    Sunday 8 July 2012

    Making the Cut


    Through @Stylecaster on Twitter I discovered, Joy Cicioci’s (www.joycioci.com) laser
    cut leather dress in the most amazing neon green colour.

    Spring 2012 Joy Cioci

    This reminded me, that I’d saved a pretty blue top onto my desktop which also has cutwork as a design feature. I obviously like this look!


    This has begun my creative ramblings on the Fashion history of Cutting pattern into fabric. It is not a new thing, take a look at Tudor slashing. 


    The fabric did eventually fray unless it was bound
    This technique is known as cutwork or Broderie Anglais. 
    Edwardian cut work
    Machine produced

    Time consuming to say the least,  that is until machines took over.  Today, computers have further reduced time and manufacturing costs.   producing both the design and the embroidery. Is this a good thing? Now the answer to that is a whole new blog - another time!

    I particularly love the Louis Vuitton oversized
    Broderie Anglais collars.
      But what about the laser cut leather how is this done? I’ve noticed over the last 10 years or so, Laser cutting has grown and grown. And no longer do we have the worry of fabric fraying and the need to bind it. The laser cutter cuts and seals at the same time. It's set just a the right temperature to penetrate the material, but not burn it. The intricacy of pattern is breath taking. This is one of those times when technology has been used to enhance and develop fabulously creative and elaborate designs. 

    Take a look:

    Beautiful laser cut silk for Marchesa
    Much to my surprise but pleasure, a blog has been devoted to this very topic, Hence I’m not going to witter on much longer and I shall give you the link instead. Enjoy: http://lasercutfabric.com/blog/

    Sunday 1 July 2012

    Never say Never


    Setting up a business was something I never; I mean never imagined I'd ever be doing. I'm smiling right now because I 've often joked 'Never say Never'.  Perhaps this is where Mr Beiber should be singing in the background!  You can have the lyrics instead  - not quite sure how copy right works otherwise, you'd have his video - Now is this a blessing or curse:)

    See I Never Thought That 
    Could Walk Through fire
    Never thought that 
    I Could take a burn
    Never had the strength 
    To take it higher
    Until I reached the point of no return

    And There's just no turnin' back
    When your heart's under attack
    Gonna give everything I have
    It's my destiny

    Chorus:I will never say never (I will fight)
    I will fight 'till forever (Make It right)
    When ever you knock me down
    I will not stay on the ground
    Pick it up, Pick it up, 
    Pick it up up up

    And Never Say Never

    I announced I'd never become a teacher, and I'm now into my 10th year of teaching. So why am I surprised to my core that I'm seriously learning how to set up a fashion label?

    Right now I acknowledge I haven't got a choice, its got me - this need to create  to earn my living from what I'm truly good at. As cheesy as it sounds, Its my 'Calling'. I was Designed by God to design.

    However, This starting a business wasn't part of my interpretation of Designing for a living.This isn't going to happen over night, I'm still teaching and will being doing so for a while longer. I may be able to design and people have acknowledged I'm good, but the right people buying my clothes isn't  quite happening yet.

    I'm being blessed with lots of advice, its putting the right advice into action thats the issue. One person says one thing the next person says another! But one question keeps re-occurring , and I guess this is the question I need to focus on.

    What is the question?



    The question is: Just who is my Customer? Who would pay money for my designs.  I'll discuss this in my next blog. I need to do some research. I'll get back to you:)